How to Refinish a Clawfoot Tub
Refinishing a 100-year-old clawfoot tub may seem daunting, but with patience and the right approach, you can restore its timeless beauty and make it the centerpiece of your bathroom once again. When I first discovered my own antique clawfoot tub, it was showing its age with layers of peeling paint and signs of wear. But I saw the potential beneath the surface and knew it was worth the effort to bring it back to life.
From Pasture to Perfection: The Journey of Our 100-Year-Old Clawfoot Tub
Years ago, my father-in-law was given a clawfoot tub that had seen better days. The gentleman who gave it to him had it for about 20 years. He had been using it out in the pasture field to water his cattle.
Despite its rough condition, my father-in-law saw potential in the tub. He brought it back to his farm. But, unfortunately it sat out in the weather for several more years.
How We Got an Antique Clawfoot Tub
In 2021, we started building an addition onto our home. The addition included a dining room, mud and laundry room, and a master bedroom/bathroom suite. We were looking forward to the new bathroom the most. Our family of 4 had been sharing one bathroom in our 800 sq foot home for over 6 years.
My father-in-law, knowing how much we love old and storied pieces, offered us the tub. It was rusty, weathered, and far from the gleaming centerpiece we envisioned for our new bathroom.
But we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to bring this piece of history into our home.
With a lot of determination and some elbow grease, we decided to take on the challenge of restoring this century-old tub to its former glory.
Now, it’s not just a functional piece in our bathroom; it’s a conversation starter and a reminder of the stories and hard work that brought it back to life.
What This Post Will Cover
In this post, I’ll guide you through a detailed process of how I restored my 100-year-old clawfoot tub. I’ll be sharing the steps and techniques that transformed a weathered antique into a stunning centerpiece for our bathroom. We’ll start with an overview of the essential materials and tools you’ll need. Then dive into each stage of the restoration process.
I will be the first to tell you, I am not a professional. I researched how to refinish a clawfoot tub for MONTHS. I’m sure there is a better way and probably a better process. However, I’m sharing the steps that I used to refinish a clawfoot tub that I was willing to try to save!
Tools & Materials I used to Refinish a Clawfoot Tub
Protective Gear
- Respirator Mask– A respirator mask is essential for this project. If you’re dealing with Lead (I’ll talk more about that below) it’s important that you use a respirator mask that is rated for lead particles.
- Eye Protection– you’ll need eye goggle protection as opposed to safety glasses. You don’t want any particles getting in your eyes!
- Gloves- you’ll need a pair (or 2) of thick rubber gloves to use during several of the steps I will outline.
- Clothing- Wear old clothes! This is a dirty job, and you WILL get dirty…
Tools & Supplies
- Electric Sander– I love my DeWalt Electric Sander
- Sand Blaster- this may not be necessary for every situation, but having this Abrasive Blaster Kit was for our project. You will also need this blast media to go with it and also MAKE SURE that you wear a sandblasting hood while using this.
- Wire Brushes– I used these wire brush attachments that fit on our DeWalt Drill. These will help get the rust off of the exterior of the tub.
- Cleaner– As crazy as it sounds, you need toilet bowl cleaner. Not just any bottle though, you’ll need this specific brand and bottle.
- Sponges- Sponges are needed for when you scrub the tub with the toilet bowl cleaner. I used these natural sponges, to make sure any color dye didn’t transfer on to the tub.
- Filler- this is used to fill any dents, chips, grooves, or cracks. I used Bondo.
Cleaning the Tub
As I mentioned, my clawfoot tub had been sitting out in the weather for 20+ years. So, it was covered in mold, dirt, limescale, and rust. I was anxious and determined to get it clean, I just wasn’t about to scrub it down with sponges and a water hose…
So, I got out my trusty electric pressure washer. I was hesitant to use the pressure washer, thinking I might possibly damage the tub. But, I thought, “How can it get any worse?!”.
I busted out my bottle of Mean Green Cleaner and sprayed the tub down. I let it soak for about 5 minutes or so, being careful not to let it dry.
Then, I fired up the pressure washer and started spraying the tub. It worked great! The pressure washer had stripped all of the mold and dirt off of the interior and the exterior of the tub.
It was starting to look better, but I still had a lot of work ahead of me!
I needed to get this tub ready to soak and bathe in.
Testing for Lead Before You Refinish a Clawfoot Tub
Before I started sanding, I tested the tub for lead. I learned in my research that some old cast iron tubs contained lead. Lead was used in the porcelain coating.
I found these lead test swabs to test my tub before I started sanding. I knew if it was positive for lead, I would need to take a pause and reassess my situation. And wouldn’t you know it, I swabbed the porcelain glaze and it was POSITIVE for lead…
This is where I had to stop and really think. Was it worth it? What were the risks? My research allowed me to fall down another rabbit hole. From what I could gather, it was doable to refinish it relatively safely.
I was confident I could do it with minimal risks. From what I had learned, as long as the lead is encapsulated, it can safely be used.
Personal Protective Equipment Needed to Refinish a Clawfoot Tub
The main thing, is to be sure to use the correct personal protective gear to refinish a clawfoot tub.
As I mentioned, this is blog post details the steps and process I used to refinish a clawfoot tub. Please do your own research on the safety of working with lead. Make your own decision based on the information that you find.
Sanding the Interior
After the first round of cleaning the tub, I began the sanding.
I started on the inside of the tub using my electric sander. I used the 100 grit on the interior- I didn’t feel like it needed the 60 grit. It didn’t need much other than just smoothing it out and filling in dents, scratches, and holes.
Once I went over it a few times, I switched to the 220 grit. 220 grit is generally used as a finishing sand paper and will smooth out any imperfections.
Sanding the Exterior
After the inside was sanded, the work on the exterior of the tub began.
We started with an abrasive blaster kit– similar to a sandblaster. This worked great for getting into all of the nooks and crannies, where the feet attach to the tub.
After we got everything that needed to be blasted finished, I got the electric sander back out. This time, I needed to use 60 grit sandpaper. The outside of the tub had so much rust and corrosion, it needed some heavy duty sanding.
It took some time to knock all of the flaky rust down, but once I got the majority of it off, I stepped down to 100 grit sandpaper.
From 100 grit, I finished off with the 220 sandpaper. Just as I did on the interior of the tub. There were some spots where the sander wouldn’t work, so I did have to sand by hand.
Finally, we took the air compressor and blew off any excess dust. Then, went over the tub with a microfiber cloth to remove any that was left before moving to the next step.
We also needed to do some work on the feet for the tub. The abrasive blaster worked best for this step. There was also a little hand sanding that I had to do, but overall, this was probably the easiest part of the process.
When we first got the tub, it only had 3 feet with it. We were able to find an exact match on eBay! The listing that I found was for a set of 2, so now we have an extra if for some reason we ever need it.
Feet Types
There are a few different types and styles of claw feet. It’s important to know the style and attachment method before you begin planning to refinish a clawfoot tub.
- Ball and Claw – The most popular style, featuring a claw grasping a ball, often with intricate detailing.
- Eagle Claw – Similar to the Ball and Claw but with a more defined talon and often designed to look like an eagle’s claw, giving it a more dramatic look.
- Lion’s Paw – Shaped like a lion’s paw with detailed, powerful toes.
- Plain or Federal Style – A simpler, unadorned style with minimal detailing, usually associated with the Federal or early American styles.
Not all clawfoot tub feet have the same attachment method, especially among antique models. The attachment method can vary depending on the manufacturer, style, and era of the tub.
- Screw-in – Some tub feet are designed to screw directly into the bottom of the tub. This method is less common in antique models but can be seen in certain reproduction tubs.
- Bolt-On – Many tubs have bolt-on feet, where bolts or screws attach the feet directly to the tub. This method provides a sturdy connection and is common for heavier tubs.
- Pinned or Slotted – Some antique tubs have feet that slide into a slot or are pinned into place. This attachment relies on a secure fit between the feet and the cast iron, but it can loosen over time with wear.
- Post and Clamp – Certain clawfoot designs have a post on the foot that inserts into a bracket or clamp under the tub. The clamp is then tightened to hold the foot in place, creating a stable connection without bolts.
These feet can vary in size and detailing depending on the period and the manufacturer.
Filling and Patching
Once the sanding was complete, there was several dents and holes that needed to be filled and patched.
To do this, we used an automotive grade Bondo filler. It’s a 2 part compound. The instructions are on the can, but essentially, you’ll have to mix a hardener in with the mix and work in small batches. If you try to work in a large batch, your Bondo will more that likely start to dry and harden before you get it on.
Once your Bondo goes on and is smoothed out, you’ll need to do some more sanding. If you get the Bondo spread on fairly smooth, you probably won’t need to go above 220 grit. But, if it went on a little thick or patchy, just follow the same process as I mentioned before.
Start with the 100 and finish with the 220 grit.
There were a lot of little pits in the enamel of the tub. The worst areas were on the ledge of the tub. The Bondo worked great. It’s hard to tell in the photos, but you could run your hand over the areas where it was patched and it was so smooth. It’s like there had been no flakes or pits.
The Final Clean
Once everything was sanded and and we had a smooth surface to work with, I needed to clean the tub one last time. I needed a clean surface for the primer and paint on the exterior of the tub. But more importantly, I needed a clean surface on the interior of the tub before I applied the glaze.
What To Use For This Step
Toilet bowl cleaner, but not just any toilet bowl cleaner. You need a toilet bowl cleaner that contains hydraulic acid. I used Lysol Power Toilet Bowl Cleaner.
The hydraulic acid in the toilet bowl cleaner dissolves mineral buildup and deeply embedded stains, preparing the surface for refinishing products to adhere better. Proper cleaning ensures that all oils, residues, and impurities are removed, which helps paint, primers, and sealants adhere smoothly and last longer.
Painting
I painted the feet first.
I used Rustoleum Metal Primer. You’ll want to do this step as soon as you get the feet sanded and cleaned. If not, it’s likely that the feet will start to rust again.
Once you have sprayed the primer allow it to dry, according to the directions on the can. Then you can paint your feet whatever color you want.
I was going for an antiqued brass/bronze color to match the faucet and other finishes in the new bathroom. To get this look, I used a black chalk paint and allowed it to dry. Then, I added a top coat of a brass type paint.
The next step was to paint the exterior of the tub. Instead of the same spray primer, I used a roll on version. The spray can type would have worked for this part. But, I though that this would be a better choice.
After the primer was dry, the tub was ready for the paint! I used a white gloss enamel paint.
Applying the Glaze
This step was the most intimidating step of the entire process for me. But, let me go ahead and say; it was actually very simple and turned out great!
There are several tub refinishing glazes on the market, but I chose to go with this one. This company has so much information available and several videos that really helped me nail this D.I.Y project. I spent hours on their YouTube channel before I began.
Temperature
The weather was starting to cool down when I got to this step of the process. I was able to get the tub brought inside the new build and start the process of the glazing inside. It’s important to note, that the temperature needs to be at least 75 degrees F to cure properly.
It needs to be 75 degrees for 12 hours prior to your project, as well as during, and the 24 hours while it dries.
You can find all the FAQ’s and Prep Instructions that you need to follow on the Refinished Bath Solutions website.
I followed the companies video on how to do the entire process.
Protecting the Floors
You will want to make sure to protect your floors. I used a large roll of brown paper that I purchased at Lowes.
I wasn’t working with any fixtures or faucets in place, so I didn’t need to worry about taping anything off. However, I did place an old plastic container underneath the drain hole, to catch any of the product that leaked out.
Mixing the Components of the Glaze
Like the Bondo, this product is a 2 part mixture. You’ll need to pour Part B into Part A. Make sure to follow the directions thoroughly for this step!
Pouring on the Glaze
The video will show you how to pour on the glaze. You’ll want to start pouring at the top of the ledge and allow it to run down into the tub. It will self level for the most part, but there will be areas that you’ll need to smooth out.
I used a foam paint roller to spread the pooled up glaze onto areas that hadn’t been coated with the glaze.
Once you have the glaze process finished, it’s important to look for any air bubbles. Wherever you see any, you’ll need to zap them with a heat gun or hair dryer. I used a hair dryer, because I didn’t have a heat gun. It worked great!
After the curing time, we had everything ready to add to the bathroom. We just had to wait on some help to get it there. Cast iron tubs, as I’m sure you can image, are extremely heavy! Two grown men were able to move the tub, but three would have been better. Especially moving into a room with freshly tiles flooring.
We factored in the weight of the tub (empty and filled with water) into our blueprints for bathroom. We added/doubled floor joists to accommodate for the extra weight.
I hope my information on how to refinish a clawfoot tub has been helpful and you were able to get something out of it.
I’m really happy with how the tub turned out and how it’s holding up.
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